Namibie

Namibie je jeste vetsi a mene zalidnenejsi nez Botswana. Na svych 825 000km ctverecnich ma necele 2 miliony obyvatel. Byla kolonizovana Nemci, ale na zacatku 1.Svetove valky nad Namibii prevzala kontrolu Jihoafricka republika az do sve nezavislosti v roce 1988. Je to vyspela zeme a vsechno funguje docela dobre, az teda na tu dopravu, neni se cemu divit nemeli by koho prevazet a tak lidi co se potrebujou nekam dostat, vetsinou musi na stopa. My jsme si stopovani uzili v Botswane a v 40stupnich stat na silnici a cekat 3 hodiny nez projede prvni auto se nam nechtelo a tak jsme se rozhodli pujcit si auto, to nejmensi a nejlevnejsi, ale stejne trochu pres rozpocet.



Uzili jsme si to tak trochu jinak, kochali jsme se krasnou prirodou a mohli jsme si zastavit kde jsme chteli, ale neprisli jsme do kontaktu s moc lidma. Vzali jsme par mistnich stoparu a nabrali benzin na par benzinkach, ale jinak jsme potkali asi 20 aut za cely tyden.
Z Windhoeku jsme vyrazili na pobrezi a pres krasnou poust do Narodniho parku Namib-Naukluft. V Naukluftskych horach jsme si protahly kosti dvouma jednodennima trekama a pak do krasnych rudych dun v Sossusvlei. V okoli Keetmanshoop jsme obdivovali zajimave Kokerbooms stromy (druh Aloe) a vyhled na nadherny Fish River Kanyon na konec.













Vetsina silnic byla jen sterkovych a tak rizeni bylo docela vysilujici, trochu se nam podarilo skrabnout auto, ale nikdo si toho nevsiml:)
Jeden den jsme zustali ve Windhoeku a nasedli na luxusni autobus primo do Kapskeho mesta.

Kde jsme prave ted, strasne nam tu fouka a vcera nam malem odlitnul stan.

zdravi monika

Planet Baobab

"Makgadikgadi? I asked what was out there, and they said 'Nothing - only idiots go there.' I thought fine, that's the place for me."

Jack Bousfield, 1963

Luckily these days there is something out there. One of the most unique lodges in Africa in fact. Planet Baobab is a lodge and campsite designed in the style of a traditional Bakalanga village. It is situated just a few kilometres from Gweta on the Nata-Maun road in northern Botswana. Although it is just a few hundred metres from the main road it is completely hidden, and the advantage is that once you are there you too are completely hidden! The only way you can tell when to get off the bus or turn off the road is because of the presence of a whopping great pink aardvark on the side of the road!

On arrival the lodge reveals itself to be situated in, under and around 17 baobab trees which the stylish huts compliment with their authentic designs. The campsite is hidden at the back of the complex (perhaps the tents and 4x4's would ruin the look!) but is not neglected, campers enjoying the roofless shower blocks and shaded sites. The huge bar is like some temporary open-air aircraft hanger and is crammed full of retro photos of African life and other cool artifacts. The restaurant is quite expensive (but campers are free to self-cater) but offers a wide range of dishes from across the continent. They also offer tours onto the salt pans, which include wildlife safaris, quad bike expeditions, meerkat visits, local village tours and overnight bush camping trips. Uncharted Africa, who run Planet Baobab, also own the luxury Jacks Camp, San camp and the beautifully isloated Camp Kalahari, right in the middle of the pans.

All in all a visit is a unique experience and one of Africa's highlights in terms of accommodation options!

Zambia Travel Costs

Zambia is widely regarded these days as one of the more expensive countries in Africa in which to travel. The fact that they export petrol to Zimbabwe who are then able to sell it at lower costs hints to part of the problem. It does not affect travellers as much as Zambians and here are some ways to get by:

Visa - $50, available at the border or beforehand at a Zambian embassy. Valid for 1 months entry, to be used within 3M of issue

Shared taxi from border to Chipata - 10,000Kwa (Zambian Kwacha) p.p, 30 mins
Tomatoes/Onions at Chipata market - 1000/2000Kwa per pile
African Polony in Chipata - 500Kwa per portion
Minibus from Chipata to Mfuwe - 50,000Kwa p.p. up to 5 hours waiting plus 4-5 hours for the journey. Add 5-10,000Kwa for a private transfer from Mfuwe to a camp or lodge.
Camping at Croc Valley, Mfuwe - 35,000Kwa p.p. Includes free visit from hippos and elephants, and maybe a leopard, during the night.
Beer at Croc Vallet - 10,000Kwa. Meals here very overpriced but there is a self-catering kitchen available.
Game drive - 125,000Kwa park fees plus 200,000Kwa for 4 hours game drive.
Bus from Chipata to Lusaka - 115,000Kwa, 6-20 hours. Good road, good buses, nice scenery.
Dorm at Ku-omboka Backackers, Lusaka - 45,000Kwa p.p. Nice restaurant (mains around 23,000Kwa) and bar.
***AVOID CHACHACHA BACKPACKERS IN LUSAKA - RUDE AND UNFRIENDLY STAFF AND POOR SECURITY ISSUES***
Fast food at LA Fast Foods - 12-20,000Kwa for kebab, chips, burgers, fried chicken etc
Proper meal (i.e. nsima with chicken or fish) at Fajemas - 15,000Kwa
Internet - from 9-12,000Kwa per hour. Fastest and best is at Arcades.
Fruit and vegetables on Soweto market in Lusaka - usually 1500-2000Kwa per kilo.
Minibus from centre to Arcades or Manda Hill - 2000Kwa p.p.
Taxi around town - around 15,000Kwa
Bus from Lusaka to Livingstone - 80,000Kwa, 6-10 hours.
Camping at Jollyboys, Livingstone - 30,000Kwa p.p. Nice place, well run, pool and bar, internet, book swap, info desk, craft shop and excellent self-catering kitchen.
Meal at Chinese restaurant, Livingstone - from 12-20,000Kwa
Minibus to Victoria Falls NP - 2500Kwa
Entrance to Victoria Falls NP - 48,000Kwa (or $10USD at current rate)
Guide to walk along the top of the falls - 20,000Kwa (after bargaining)
Beer at Jollyboys - 8000Kwa
Shared taxi to Kazangula (Botswana border) - 25,000Kwa each
Ferry across Zambezi to Botswana - 2000Kwa

Average cost per person per day - 125,000Kwa

Exchange rate - USD$1=4800Kwa, GBP1=7600Kwa

Travel Tips for Malawi

Malawi turned out to be more expensive than we anticipated, but it is possible to keep your costs down, here are some ways to do it:

Visa - for those who need a visa they cost $70-100, valid for 30 days within Malawi, takes 4 days to issue in Dar Es Sallaam. Check before arriving at the border as none should be issued there, although we have heard from various people that in emergencies it is possible.

Taxi from Songwe Bridge (Tanzanian border) to Nkhata Bay - 15,000MK after bargaining (300km+). A minibus should cost around 1000MK, but will require at least two changes and probably an overnight in Karonga or Mzuzu.
Camping at Kupenja Lodge, Nkhata Bay - 400MK p.p.
Basic meal at Kupenja Lodge (i.e. Rice and Veg or beans / fish or meat) - 400/600MK
Beer (Carlsberg 'Green'/'Stout') at Kupenja Lodge - 150/180MK
Soft drinks in a shop/bar - 50/100MK
Meal in local cafe - around 200MK
Internet - 5-8MK per min.
2l bottle of mineral water - 200MK
200ml bottle of WaterGuard purifier - 30MK
Bag of chips (with cabbage) - 100MK
Minibus from Nkhata Bay to Mzuzu - 350MK, 1 hour, 50km
Scone from street vendor - 50MK
Bus/Minibus from Mzuzu to Chikangawa (Viphya Plateau) and v.v. - 300/400MK, 1 hour, 55km
Camping at Kasito Lodge, Viphya Plateau - 750MK per site
Eggs/tomato/onion per piece on market - 30/10/30-50MK
Roast corn on the cob - 50-100MK
1st/2nd/Economy class ticket on Ilala from Nkhata Bay to Chizimulu island - 2600/960/590MK, 4 hours, totally packed, we took 1st class for this sector.
Camping at Wakwenda Retreat, Chizimulu island - 500MK p.p. But it is a priceless experience. Stunning location, excellent design and set-up. Only downside was the useless staff!
Beer at Wakwenda (Foreigner/Local) - 200/150MK. Hmmmm......
Meals at Wakwenda - from 400MK, slightly overpriced. Dinners usually 800MK per person, which is normal for backpackers in Malawi.
Snorkelling at Wakwenda - FREE
Meal at Joyces restaurant (next door to Wakwenda) - around 300MK for rice or nsima with egg, veg and beans. A little more for fish.
Dhow ride from Chizimulu to Likoma - 150MK p.p. From 1.5-5 hours depending on weather.
Camping at Mango Drift, Likoma - 500MK p.p. Nice beach and well organised.
Breakfast/Lunch/Dinner at Mango Drift - 200-600/200-900/800MK
Beer/G'and'T and Mango Drift - 200/250MK
Firewood - 100MK per bunch (imported from Mozambique!)
Sunday service at Likoma Cathedral - FREE, includes spiritual blessing
Self-catering dinner for 7 on a fire - 120MK per person for 3 plates each of a stew of rice, beans, soya mince, potatoes and 4 types of vegetables.
Soya pieces - 65-80MK per packet.
1st/2nd class ticket on Ilala from Likoma to Monkey Bay - 9600/2800MK
Breakfast, lunch or dinner on Ilala in 1st class restaurant - 400-600MK
Coffee on Ilala - 100MK per cup. NO REFILLS!
'Green' beer on Ilala - 180MK
Coca-cola on Ilala - 80 in 2nd class, 100MK in 1st!
Meal from Economy galley (something like nsima and beef stew) - 150-200MK
Night in Luxury cabin on Ilala if arriving in Monkey Bay after dark - FREE for tourists, after consultation with the captain.
Ride on pick-up from Monkey Bay to Mangochi - 350MK
Bus from Mangochi to Blantyre - 700MK
Camping at Doogles, Blantyre - 600MK p.p.
Beer at Doogles - 180MK, if you can get through the crowds to the bar!
Sports on TV (5th Ashes for instance) - FREE
Meal at Temptations Cafe, Blantyre - 400MK
Minibus from Blantyre to Limbe - 50MK
Minibus from Limbe to Mulanje (Chitikale) - 400MK
100g bag of Macadamia Nuts from vendor enroute - 10MK!!!!! Deal of the Century!
Minibus/Pick-up from Chitikale to Likubula Forest Office and v.v. - 150MK, but they will ask for 250MK
Mt Mulanje park entrance fee - 100MK per visit
Left luggage storage charge - 500MK per group
Camping at CCAP Lodge, Likhubula - 360MK p.p.
Sleeping in mountain huts on Mulanje - 700MK p.p. Nice huts, albeit empty, you sleep on the floor or on one of a few matresses but there are wardens to supply water and firewood and all have nice fireplaces.
Minibus from Thuchila to Likhubula - 200MK
Bus from Blantyre to Lilongwe - 700MK, min 5 hours, 320km
Taxi from bus station to Mabuya Camp - 800MK
Camping at Mabuya Camp - 700MK p.p. Brilliantly run, one of the best places we have stayed so far. Staff were friendly and helpful and nothing was too much trouble. They have a pool, internet, book swap, laundry facilities, many braii pits, hot showers and a nice relaxed bar. The staff are a mine of information about onward trips you may have planned.
'Green'/Stout/Coffee at Mabuya Camp - 175/200/75MK
Set dinners at Mabuya Camp - from 550-800MK
Internet at Mabuya Camp - 10MK per min. Ouch!
Internet in Lilongwe - from 5MK per min.
Self-caterers can make use of the PTC, Shoprite and Metro stores all close to each other in the centre.
Minibus from Lilongwe to Mchinji (Malawi/Zambia border) - 600MK, 2 hours
Shared taxi from Mchinji to the actual border post - around 200MK p.p.

Budget - 3000MK per person per day based on two people camping every night and self-catering for at least half of the meals.

Exchange rate - 141MK=$1USD at the official rate. If you have greenbacks then you can change them for up to 180MK on the black market. Therefore it is better to bring cash into Malawi, not rely on ATM's like us and get the official rate!

South Saturn Delta

Botswana is not an easy country to visit. The visa system is very restrictive and once you get into the country you realise the full extent to which they are dedicated to “high revenue – low impact” tourism. What this means is that unless you are willing to pay upwards of $300USD per night to sleep in a luxury lodge only accessible by air transfer then the Botswana government are not interested in you! Whilst this model has sound environmental strengths, less people means less pollution, overcrowding and threat to the wildlife I am not so sure about the social implications. Surely Botswanans will develop a skewed image of foreign tourists if the only ones they meet are the uber-rich? Rather amusing was the fact that after jumping through hoops to get a visa the border guard was about to absent-mindedly stamp Monika in without even checking her nationality! More frustrating was that the visa was valid only for 14 days, and this was reduced further to only 10 days by immigration. We had had to rush out of Zambia due to the conditions of both the Botswana and Namibia visas and now we encountered more restrictions!

In Kasane we realised the campsite we had booked did not exist but we found an alternative place tacked on to a luxury lodge full of holidaying South Africans. Kasane itself is a strange dusty town full of warthogs wandering the streets, holding up the fleets of 4x4’s. The town is still and silent, with no life from the locals. The markets are quiet and staid and when we wanted to do a boat trip into the Chobe national park we could not find anyone to take us. Anywhere else in Africa you would have people clambering over each other to offer you a tour of some sorts. We had to resort to visiting the tourism board for help finding a suitable boat!



It was worth the search however. The boat trips take place in the afternoon, just before sunset. We found a lodge with a small boat, only 12 seats, rather than the 56 seaters owned by the big lodges. This small boat was able to get us closer to the crocs and hippos than we wanted and to good views of elephants, buffalo, giraffe and even a sable antelope. The highlight for many people is viewing elephants crossing the river, something we witnessed just after sunset. An elephant population of over 120,000 in northern Botswana alone makes any boat cruise exciting.



Botswana is one of the few African success stories. Despite being neglected during the colonial era, only protected by the Brits to stop any incursions from either the Boers or the Germans (who had just arrived in Namibia). At independence in 1966 there was only one 12km paved road in the entire country. All of a sudden they found diamonds and the economy boomed. The real reason for the success (one of the highest GDP per capita in Africa and the fastest growing economy in the world since independence) is that the government did not spend the new found wealth on personal excess, there were no mansions being built, spending sprees abroad or limousines cruising through Gabarone. Other African nations should have taken note. At one point during this time the average lifespan even hit 70 in Botswana. Unfortunately nowadays this figure has dropped to below 30, a sad reflection of how AIDS has ravaged a country with a population of under 2 million, and even that number is shrinking according to some counts.

This small population is probably why there is barely any public transport infrastructure in Botswana. Hitch-hiking is considered the easiest way to get around and just outside each ‘town’ there will be a ‘hiking spot’ under a tree where potential travellers can wait for a lift. Getting away from the main centres is pretty much impossible, unless you are cheeky enough to approach some of the South African families in the campsites, which we weren’t!



We did manage to get a ride from Kasane to Nata where we waited a couple of hours over a plate of rice and beef stew before catching a Maun-bound bus and getting dropped off at Planet Baobab. An amazing lodge, known by all and worthy of its own bus stop in the middle of nowhere, staying at Planet Baobab is like camping in a fairy tale. The lodge is an exquisitely designed collection of huts around a pool, restaurant and bar with a campsite around the back, complete with open-air showers. It is situated right on the edge of the Makgadikgadi salt pans. When we asked if we could walk to the pans the owner laughed (its 32km in blistering heat through lion-populated forest!) but kindly offered us a significant discount off of the tour rates. It was still expensive enough to take us all night to decide whether to go or not however! The tour consisted of a picnic ‘in the bush’, a game drive through herds of zebra and wildebeest and a trip on quad-bikes across the pans. Although we are not usually excited about this type of excursion it was a lot of fun, although I was slightly scared when Monika was driving as she spent the whole time cackling like a witch and imitating the sound of the engine! The highlight of the whole tour for me however was visiting a family of meerkats on our way home, such strange and inquisitive creatures we were able to get very close to them without distressing them at all.



Travelling through rural Zambia felt like travelling through a BBC documentary on Africa – the quintessential golden colours, plains dotted with baobab trees and mud huts and women walking to and fro with giant pales of water on their heads – the first time we have felt like that perhaps since we were in West Africa over two years ago! In contrast, travelling in Botswana the scenery is at best an image of an outback ghost town in Australia and at worst travelling in a post-apocalyptic world. The dusty, sparse landscape dotted with discarded car tyres and ugly tin shacks behind wire fences. There are barely any people around (Botswana ranks 228th out of 238 in the world by population density, beating countries such as Namibia, Mongolia, Iceland and Australia) and therefore the land feels lifeless. Even the dust is dull, more grey than red and like walking through a spillage of white pepper. The markets are small and few and far between and very sterile when compared with those in other African countries, it seems as if most people shop in the giant supermarkets found in the larger towns, of which there obviously are not many.



Finally we made it to Maun, the gateway to the famous Okavango Delta. Although we could not afford to fly into, let alone stay in, the Inner Delta we were able to take a two-day Mokoro trip along the Boro river in the Eastern Delta. The scenery here is probably more Norfolk Broads than classic Okavango Delta but it was quite pleasant meandering through the reeds in the mokoro (traditional canoe dug-out of sausage tree wood) being propelled by the poler standing at the back. We spotted the odd hippo and elephant during a game ‘cruise’ and listened to the baboons and abundant bird life. We also encountered zebra, wildebeest, giraffes and various types of antelope (including the red lechwe, endemic to the region) on a walking safari. All in all however I did not feel that the trip was great value, it was still quite expensive and anywhere else in the world would probably be unacceptable. However, the only other option for backpackers to see any of the delta is to hang around the airport and wait for standby seats on the scenic flights, but this is too much a hit-and-miss option and doesn’t get you up close and personal to the wildlife. It would however protect you from the squillions of flying insects that spend the whole mokoro journeys trying to insert themselves in your ears, nostrils or any other orifice they can access!



Someone told us they thought Botswanans are the laziest people in Africa. Whilst I could not make such a statement it is true that they are so laid-back they are almost horizontal! In most countries in the world on arrival at a bus station you would be met by several guys all trying to get you and your luggage onto a bus, even in Indonesia they can manage this, where the scent of tourist dollars outweighs their innate laziness! Here on arrival no-one stirs, they all sit in the minibus, we even had to open the door ourselves! Heaven forbid trying to travel with your backpacks, they will tell you to take the next bus. Sometimes the drivers are too lazy even to stop, I cannot imagine another country in this part of the world where a half-empty bus would fail to stop to pick up passengers! Possibly the most frustrating example is asking anybody a question, especially directions. I am sure my beard grew an inch or so just waiting for the answer, often just a couple of words and a brief hand signal!



Independent travel in Botswana is expensive but possible, food and park entry fees are relatively cheap and transport, once you can find it, is not unreasonably priced. Camping is slightly more expensive than in neighbouring countries but is easy to find. The problem is the price of any organised tour or activity blows all other costs away, but who would come to Botswana and not visit the Okavango Delta, let alone Chobe National Park (which is fairly cheap to visit) or the salt pans?