Wednesday, August 26, 2009

MV Ilala

The MV Ilala is an infamous steamer plying the waters of Lake Malawi. It is over 60 years old and is showing signs of its age. The ship no longer conforms to international safety standards and as a result the Malawian government have been trying to have it de-commissioned for over 5 years. Which means there is no time like the present to clamber on and go for a ride! Apparently the government are looking into building a replacement but these things take time.

It leaves its home port of Monkey Bay on the southern shore every Friday, travelling northbound via Chipoka and Nkhotakota to Metangula in Mozambique, from there to the isolated islands Likoma and Chizimulu and on to the bustling fishing port of Nkhata Bay. It then continues north via several small villages to Chilumba where it should arrive on Sunday evening before leaving again early Monday morning and starting the return journey, arriving back in Monkey Bay by Wednesday, scheduled around lunchtime but more often than not sometime in the evening. Many of the stops do not have a harbour or jetty and so the passengers, and all their worldly goods, are ferried ashore, or as close as they can get, via the Ilalas two lifeboats. This means a stop at one of these places can last up to 8 hours as they fill each lifeboat and over in both directions. Just a couple of weeks ago one of the lifeboats capsized doing a run from the Ilala to Chizimulu, a distance of just a couple of hundred yards. I cannot imagine the frustration and fury, having almost survived the experience, only to be thrown in the drink within spitting distance of dry land!

The most common use of the Ilala by foreign tourists is to visit the beautiful islands of Likoma and Chizimulu. To do this and continue in the same direction means to spend a week on these two very small islands, although this is hardly a bad thing. If you don’t mind backtracking then you could make a visit of 4 days. A visit to the islands is a highlight of Malawi for many tourists.

Lake Malawi is stunning and at times you can be forgiven for thinking you are out at open seas. Come sunset most tourists, both foreign and local, find themselves up on the top deck, enjoying a sundowner at the bar.

Officially the passenger capacity is 460 and the cargo capacity is 100 tonnes, plus 10 tonnes for “personal luggage” although, naturally, these figures are often ignored. When we recently boarded at Nkhata Bay the ship was full to bursting point, to the extent that some passengers were denied boarding, meaning a whole week until the next departure! Trust me, it’s an experience being on a ferry (or any form of transport) in Africa when they decide there is not even space for one more person, or sack of rice!

There are four classes on board the Ilala:

- Economy, which is a few municipal-baths style benches on the lowest deck, plus any cubic inch of space anywhere on the deck. This is often packed to the extent that we were unaware that there were any benches as all we could see were a mass of people sitting on bags of rice and corn flour and the piles of flattened cardboard boxes that people seem to be dragging everywhere.
- 2nd class, a small cabin at the front of the lowest deck, in between the economy section and the cargo on the bow. There are roughly 10 sets of tables with bench seats. If it is quiet this can be quite comfortable as you can stretch out.
- 1st class deck is the next step up, free reign of the top deck, which is also where the bar is situated. Sounds great for that sundowner but not so good on the busy sectors to/from Nkhata Bay where it is bound to be packed with paralytic fishermen. These sectors are also the worst for theft on the top deck, funnily enough.
- Finally Cabin class. Nice two-bed cabins with basin and table inside. There is also an owners cabin which has an ensuite bathroom.

On the second deck, where the cabins are situated you will find two hot(!) showers and clean toilets, although when the ship is packed to the gills it can be difficult making your way to the toilet. When I had to go I think I crushed three babies’ heads and several old women’s ankles, whilst searching for a small gap to plant my feet as I swung from the overhead pipes monkey style. There is also a nice restaurant with an impressive menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Highlights include the grilled chambo (Lake Malawis most popular fish), the shredded beef and rice, and the vegetable curry. Breakfast offers a variety of options including a Full English, the Middle Eastern Shakshuka or just a fried egg sarnie. Down in the Economy class there is a galley serving cheaper and simpler but no less tasty meals if you are trying to save the pennies. There is also a small shop selling essentials such as biscuits, crisps and beer.

It can be quite an expensive trip. From Monkey Bay to Likoma Island in a cabin will cost more than 15000MK, which is over $100, 1st class for the same sector will run to around 9000MK (around $65) and 2nd class will be just under 3000 ($20). We travelled 1st class from Nkhata Bay to Chizimulu, which cost us 2600MK each, and then 2nd class from Likoma Island to Chipoka (having got a small dhow between the islands). We then decided to continue to Monkey Bay so bought an economy ticket for the final sector. As we arrived in Monkey Bay during the night the captain invited us to sleep in a cabin, free of charge, and disembark in the morning so Monika and I are in the unique position of having tried every class on the Ilala!

All in all it can only be described as an ‘experience’. This is the third such ferry we have travelled on in Africa (not including the fast ferries between Jordan and Egypt and between Dar Es Salaam and Zanzibar) but by far least comfortable. Whilst the ferry across Lake Nasser was packed there was still room to move and in contrast to the Ilala the Lake Victoria ferry was a luxurious experience!

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Blind Date

One of Zanzibars lesser known highlights, at least lesser known amongst foreign visitors, is a small duka (shop) just a few doors down from Flamingo Guesthouse which sells fresh natural yoghurt and fresh date 'juice' by the glass. The natural yoghurt has the tell-tale delicious crust on top, whilst the date juice comes topped with honey, peanuts and poppy seeds. Mmmmm. I have one blurred photo but at the moment I have no way to upload it! I will attach it as soon as I can!

Monday, August 10, 2009

The Spice Of Life

Just as I was happy to escape the tourism industries of Kenya and Tanzania into Uganda I was equally relieved to escape the attitudes of many of the people of South-western Uganda and return to Tanzania, attitudes which ironically are probably due to their lack of communication with the outside world, be it Europe, the rest of Africa or even just Kampala. In any case, after crossing the border (again hassle-free!) and jumping in a Bukoba-bound minibus I suddenly felt ten-feet tall. Not just because I was the tallest person in the bus and my knees were squashed into seat in front but it also felt great to be back in Tanzania, despite not having held Arusha or Moshi in very high regard. Sure the people there were friendly, if a little insincere, but the cities themselves were very dull and grey and would be ignored by tourists were they not right next to the Serengeti, Ngorongoro crater and Mount Kilimanjaro!

Why did I feel so happy? Perhaps because I could see how friendly Tanzanians are to each other. Perhaps just because in Tanzania they only fill each seat once!
We arrived in the town of Bukoba just one hour before the thrice-weekly ferry was due to leave so we could only get 3rd class deck tickets. But we managed to buy two crews berths. We had a meal in the 1st class restaurant then retired to the lounge for a beer before bed, waking up to blue skies over beautiful Lake Victoria as we arrived in Mwanza. Sounds great doesn’t it? - I just haven’t mentioned the approx 3 million bananas on board (Ugandas biggest export) nor the 3 trillion insects they attracted, nor that 1st class is a relative term!!!!

Mwanza is a modern, clean and spacious city with very friendly people. The lake side is home to some very posh houses perched on cliffs that have the appearance of some sort of Mediterranean resort. The air is pleasant and it is nice to wander around, even if there is little to actually do. The Indian traders selling everything from shampoo to fabrics kept us occupied and the street food was surprisingly tasty – especially the chicken and fish tikka with chips.

We bought bus tickets from Mwanza to Dar Es Salaam, a trip of over 1200km! Surprisingly, Tanzanian buses cannot travel at night, a safety law, so they leave at dawn and go like the clappers, covering the 1200km in 13 hours! It used to take 5 days but the road has been improved so it left us with a hole in our plans! The journey started alright but after about 300km our back axle buckled completely. No worries, jack it up, get a wrench and half the men on the bus and pull it back into place! And off we went, except we are leaking water by the gallon. After two stops of an hour each refilling it got to the point where a guy was sitting at the front of the bus pouring water in as we went along!! Finally at 3pm they gave up and we got in a new bus. This one did about 300km as well before we stopped. I had thought the brakes were bad and then I found out why. There were no brakes on the rear nearside, nothing. They stopped and put blocks under the bus (no jack) and installed new brake shoes and a drum in about 10 minutes, just wedging the wheel on and off using another wrench! We arrived in Dodoma, Tanzania’s quiet capital (and capital only in name), after dark but somehow were able to continue. We raced along, brakes squeaking, just 450km to go, until suddenly there was an almighty explosion and we skidded to a halt! Both tires on the rear offside had just exploded completely; I have never seen anything like it, there was nothing left!!!! Being the only person on board with a fully functioning torch I had to stand out in the middle of the road observing the quick change whilst we could hear the drums of a Masai village nearby and we did the final 450km slower, with a long rest stop in the middle, arriving safely in Dar at 6am, only 11 hours late! At least we saved on a nights accommodation costs!!!! That is why I am never again going on a long (over 4 month) trip anywhere where they don’t have tarmac, its damaging for body and mind - not just all the bumping but the heightened nerves and the extra beers you have to drink to calm down!!!!!!

Dar Es Salaam is another nice city, so refreshing to find two in Tanzania after drab, ugly Arusha and Moshi! Again the Indian quarter was the highlight, the aroma of spice and curries and the colourful fabrics on display. Adjacent, the CBD is very clean and modern and the port area along the front looks like a picture in a book. We camped on Kipipeo beach, just 8km from the centre, but worlds away. Once you cross the Kigamboni ferry the city turns into a fishing village and fades away into nothing but a pristine sandy beach. It was not a bad place to wait for a week, both for our visa applications and for Stepan to visit on a one-night layover, where we were able to join him for an ‘all expenses paid’ night in the luxury 5*Hotel Kilimanajro Kempinsky, complete with outdoor swimming pool on the second floor terrace, rooftop bar with spectacular views and of course the famous Kempinsky breakfast buffet!

As we are just over half through this trip we viewed these two weeks as a half-time break – a week in Dar, a night in the Kempinsky and a week on Zanzibar. The spice island is only 1½ hours by fast ferry from Dar Es Salaam but of course foreign tourists pay a special fare of $35.

Zanzibar seems like a backpackers paradise but that ferry ticket should be your first clue that this is not the case. It is expensive, much more so than any tropical island in South East Asia let alone the beaches of Goa or Sinai. Nevertheless it is also probably much nicer than any of those options. The only negative point is probably the first one most people encounter when stepping off the ferry – the papasi. Papasi is Swahili for tick and is used to describe the ‘beach boys’ that hang around offering services to tourists – anything from ferry tickets to souvenirs to their bodies or illegal drugs. I can think of a word that rhymes with ‘tick’ that is a far more accurate description, although if you decline politely, after the third or fourth time they usually get the message and move on to someone else.

Apparently the Swahili spoken in Tanzania, especially that on the Zanzibar archipelago, is the most pure of all the various Swahili groups in Africa, not that I would know. It does sound somehow ‘smoother’ than that spoken in Kenya, where for instance it is diluted by the use of many English words interspersed within the sentences.

The main town on Zanzibar is Stone Town, a beautiful mix of winding alleys and coral buildings, interspersed with the odd relic of colonial charm such as the stately courthouse or the functional fort. Within the labyrinth is hidden a beautiful local market of colourful fruit and vegetables, the islands famous aromatic spices as well as stinky fish and smelly meat.

Forodhani Gardens is the place to sample all this local fare cooked to perfection. A fantastic night market where chefs grill skewers of tandoori octopus, prawns, lobster or squid as well as other fish such as tuna and shark and more mundane options such as chicken and beef skewers. There are bigger portions available for the hungry or greedy as well as tasty sides of coconut bread or the Zanzibar Pizza – a type of pancake within which they fry beef and vegetables with cheese and salad. To add to the experience the chefs are immaculately dressed in white with their hats standing out against the velvet black sky.

Forodhani Gardens is great but is only the start of the Swahili cuisine. Perhaps the most famous dish is the fish in coconut sauce (often flavoured with ginger) which is the signature of many Swahili chefs amongst their takes on curries, stews and other dishes. Spicy rice is another famous Swahili dish, although a more down-to-earth filler, pilau rice with potatoes and salad flavoured strongly with cinnamon and cardamom.

After all this eating it is almost obligatory to take the famous ‘spice tour’. It was actually very fun and interesting as we discovered the origins of all these spices and answered many questions – i.e. that black, white, green and red pepper all comes from the same corn but green and white cardamom come from two completely different plants. We also saw how they farm ginger and turmeric and where the colour of tandoori comes from, how cloves are picked and how cinnamon is just a tree bark that curls naturally in the sun. To stretch the tour out we also stopped for a ‘traditional meal’ before visiting an old bath-house, a former slave cave and the picturesque Mangapwani beach.

It was time to leave Stone Town and relocate to one of Zanzibar’s famous beaches. We chose Jambiani beach on the east coast, quiet and serene and away from the party atmosphere of the north. Picture the most kitsch tropical island postcard – swaying palms over white sand and turquoise water lapping at the shore. Every moment five different shades of blue. The extreme tide at Jambiani made the scene even more beautiful. For several hours each day during low tide it would be possible to walk over two miles out to see with the sea reaching knee-height. This left the most remarkable views both from afar and up close as small rock pools full of peculiar creatures formed around the white rocks. The location is everything and so, even though it was the cheapest on the beach, our chalet, not five steps from the beach cost around three times our normal amount. Our only disturbance during five days there were from the laid-back papasi and the more energetic groups of kids begging for money when they should have been in school!

We did manage to embark on a dolphin tour. Whilst not exactly ‘dolphin friendly’ it was exciting, we chased two pods of about 20 dolphins before jumping in to snorkel with them, they were so close we could almost reach out and touch them! We had four ‘swims’ with the dolphins before a short spell of snorkeling over the, disappointing, corals and finally a nice lunch of grilled fish, snorkeling always gives me the taste for fish!

I wanted to hold on to the relaxed attitude that we had spent our five nights at Jambiani in but we didn’t even get back to Stone Town before it had started to crack, on the dala-dala (converted pick-up) a big African woman talked loudly incessantly without pausing even to breathe to anyone who would listen for the entire 2 hour journey! It cheered me up somewhat to return for a last taste of Forodhani Gardens before catching the slow overnight ferry back to Dar Es Salaam. At least this time we got something for the extra we had to pay - access to the first class seating, where we were able to lounge across three chairs whilst watching Gladiator on the overhead TV!

There was still time for a last insult before leaving Tanzania, Upon arrival in Dar we raced straight to the bus station and jumped on a bus to Mbeya, a town in the south close to the Malawi border. Three times someone tried to rip us off for the bus ticket and then, when we finally ascertained the correct price we did not receive our change, as it had been ‘dropped’. Then at the lunch stop the driver left four of us, Monika and I and two local men, sat eating our food. We ran down the road after them and told them to return and wait, only to find that our food had been cleared away!

The trip to Mbeya is around 700km so we arrived at dusk. We planned to stay at one of the lodges opposite the bus station but to our dismay found them all full. We tried another four or five places in town before finally finding a room. It was one of the more expensive in town but still there was no hot water and the shower flooded the whole room! We were just glad to get off the streets as Mbeya was probably the worst place we had visited in Africa. The town was full of drunks, junkies and prostitutes all wandering around the streets. We had never seen anything like it and it was nerve-wracking walking the streets with all our worldly possessions strapped to our back. The restaurant opposite the hotel reinforced this image of a run-down transient town with its American diner décor, straight out of a Coen brothers movie!

So, we are leaving the East Africa Community after two months and heading into the Southern Africa Development Community. The one thing I certainly won’t miss is the speed-bumps, something the governments of Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania have adopted with great gusto. There are many different styles but all are spine-wrenching. Take the road from Dar Es Salaam to Mbeya for instance, not a single hut in sight, just acres of burnt (by fire not sun) grass and baobab trees…. and speed-bumps. I also hope for a return to the more traditional style of African hut building with mud walls and thatched roofs. Since leaving Ethiopia the land has been dotted with ugly cement huts with shining corrugated iron roofs which I imagine must be less durable and more heat conducive as well as being incredibly unsightly.

opet v Tanzanii

Z Ugandy zpet v Tanzanii, meli jsme stesti a nocni trajekt z Bukoby do Mwanzy odplouval prave ten den. Bohuzel listky jen pro treti tridu, kde bylo par hromad bananu a natom nekolik vrstev lidi, moc se nam tam nechtelo, ale hned jak jsme nalezli na lod kapitan si nas zavolal a nabidl nam svoji kajutu za maly poplatek a musim rict, ze jsme za to byli radi. Podzemi lodi vypadalo docela drsne a myslim, ze bysme se rano probudili bez batohu nebo minimalne bez penezenky.

Vubec nevim, co jsme si predstavovali od tehle casti Tanzanie, ale v Mwanze a okoli se nam hrozne libilo. Asi proto, ze je tam velka indicka komunita a tak hodne indickyho jidla!! Podle naseho par let staryho pruvodce, dostat se do Dar es Salaamu bude trvat nekolik dni, ale v Mwanze nas mile prekvapil autobus 13hodin jizdy 1200km. Bylo tam nekolik spolecnosti a tak jsme si jednu vybrali (ne tu nejlepsi).
Verim, ze cist o nasich autobusovych zazitcich musi byt nekdy fakt nuda, ale nekdy jizda rozbitym autobusem je naplni celych nasich dni, tak tentokrat to byla opravdu perla!!
V Tanzanii je zakon, ze zadna verejna doprava nesmi jezdit v noci, asi kvuli bezpecnosti a spatnymu stavu silnic, takze vsechny autobusy vyrazi brzy rano a kalej to co to da, ale samozrejme technicky stav autobusu je sileny a tak to vetsinou nevydrzi. My jsme vyrazili v 6 rano a 2 hodiny to kalik 120km/h a pohoda, pak nam zacala vytejkat voda z motoru, tak jsme zacali zastavovat a dolejvat, pak jsme meli kanistry s vodou v autobuse a dolejvali vodu za jizdy. Pak se nam nejak vykloubilo zadni kolo, tak hodinka pod kolama a jeli jsme dal. Nekdy po obede jsme totalne dojeli, motor proste dodelal, dobry!!!tak se cekalo na dalsi autobus, vsichni si presedli a az na to, ze nam nefungovali brzdy, jsme jeli 100km/h, zastavili jsme a ridic za pul hodky sam nasadil brzdovy desticky na zadni kola, ne, ze by se to zlepsilo, ale alespon jsme ty brzdy meli:):)
Uz bylo pozde a vsichni vedeli, ze do Dar es Salaamu to dneska nedame a ze uz porusujem zakon, ale presto jsme to valili 120ti kilometrovou rychlosti a nekde pred Dodomou (hlavnim mesto Tanzanie) se nam proste za jizdy roztrhly 2 zadni kola, brzdna draha byla dlouha, ale nastesti jsme zustakli na silnici. Jediny my jsme meli baterku, takze jsme asistovali pri vymene jednoho kola (rezervu jsme meli jen jednu) a tak jsme pokracovali na trech zadnich. Nekde jsme se vyspali a do Dar es Salaamu jsme dorazili rano, takze misto 13ti hodin 24, ale zdravi a zivi!!!!!!!!!!!
V Dar es Salaamu jsme kempovali na moc pekny plazi asi 10km od mesta, ztravili jsme tam skoro tyden,

vyrizovanim viz do Malawi a Zambie a cekanim na Stepana a jednu noc v raji v hotelu Kempinsky 5ti hvezdickovy luxus. A musim rict, ze zatim pro nas jedno z nejprijemnejsich velkomest Afriky. Stepan priletel s celou posadkou a vzal si nas jako pribuzny do hotelu, po tolika nocech kempovani to bylo neco uzasnyho. Privezl nam vsechny dobroty, po kterych se nam stejzka, sli jsme si zaplavcit na strechu a do baru s vyhledem na mesto. No bylo to jak jedna noc v raji, vice fotek na nasem blogu.
A pak nas cekal Zanzibar, dalsi raj!!! more bylo docela divocina.
Stone Town je uzasny mesto s krasnou Swahilskou architekturou a kulturou ( mix Africanu, Arabu a Indu) zustali jsme tam dele, nez jsme planovali, nevedeli jsme co driv, bloudeni po uzkych ulickach a barevnych trzistich,

ochutnavani vsech mistnich dobrot, treba jako dzus z datlu napul s jogurtem, nebo navsteva nocniho trziste plnyho vsech moznejch morskejch potvor,

vylet do vnitrozemi za poznavanim vseho mozneho koreni, ktere se na Zanzibaru pestuje, hlavnim je hrebicek, zazvor, cumin, vanilka, pepr.....moc zajimavy, vubec videt jak vlastne vsechny rostou.

A pak jsme si vybrali krasnou plaz na vychodnim pobrezi, vesnici Jambiani, kde jsme si 5 dni uzivali jenom barev more a slunicka a jeden den vyletem na jih, kde jsme si zasnorchlovali pronasledovani delfinama.

Proste parada, snaha byla nacerpat co nejvic energie na dalsi 4 mesice cestovani.

Naposledy jsme se nadlabli na nocni zradelne ve Stone Town a nocnim trajektem zpet do Dar es Salaamu a rovnou autobusem do Mbeya, ale v autobuse nam nauctovali vic nez ostatnim, jako obvykle, pak nam nevratili drobny asi 3$, pak nam ujeli s batohama na obede, ze Allan musel bezet aby zastavili, autobus byl silenej a cesta trvala 15hodin a v Mbeya, nejhorsi mesto plny ozralu a zadny volny ubytovani, tak bohuzel vsechna ta enrgie, co jsme nacerpali na Zanzibaru byla fuc!!

Ale uz je zase dobre, jsme v Malawi.

zdravime monika a allan

Thursday, August 6, 2009

One Night In Heaven

We spent 6 days camping at Kipepeo Beach lodge, in Kipepeo village just 8km south of the centre of Dar Es Salaam. We were waiting on Monikas Malawi visa application, which is a whole other story, but also waiting for Stepan to visit from Dubai. He was on a one-night layover. Apart from the fact that it was great to see him again we were also excited as we were able to stay with him, as his guests, and take advantage of the facilities and the heavenly breakfast buffet at the exclusive Kilimanjaro Kempinski hotel in Dar Es Salaam. The rack rate is around $250 per night, so roughly 25 times our normal budget and somewhere we would never be able to afford to stay ourselves! The hotel is perfectly located on the seafront drive overlooking the harbour.

Not only were we able to use the 'Infinity swimming pool, which is perched on the roof of the reception but we also frequented the 8th floor terrace bar with its fantastic views over Dar.

The rooms are described as "ultra-chic" and "without a doubt the most luxurious in the city with designer bathrooms and modern decor". Apart from the fact that Monika and myself cut our feet on the sharp shower doors (design over safety I suspect) we could not fault them in any way, and if we had then I am sure there would have been a legion of bell-boys at the door within seconds!

Perhaps the most exciting point for me was the big bag of goodies Stepan brought with him for us to feast on. Fresh bread, proper butter, all kinds of cheeses (including ripe and squidgy camembert and brie), olives, pesto, Salt and Vinegar crisps and two bottles of Californian wine as well as a big bag of Swiss chocolates, straight from the Lindt factory in Zurich! This may sound mundane to some of you, who are probably able to construct the same platter by simply walking to your kitchen and opening your fridge, but after 5 months on the road it was like heaven!

The breakfast buffet was no less impressive, it was so big I could not see one end of it from the other! I had a starter of muesli topped with berry smoothie and a juice, followed by a cold plate of smoked fish with capers, olives, pickles and rocket. After a small rest I tackled a mammoth Full English with real HP on the side. Finally, almost bursting, I squeezed in a plate of croissants and donuts, washed down with rich, Tanzanian coffee.

The whole experience was so exciting that we forgot to even take one photo of us all there! But here are some of their official photos: